My Own Private Mexico
An MD and his wife explore a jungle-fringed fishing village near
By Dr Howe Sim
As our water taxi pulled into the
Yelapa Cove, our eyes were drawn to the golden sand of the beach nestled against
the lush rainforest. My wife Darlene and I immediately sensed the simple and
refreshing appeal of this quaint hideaway, which first attracted celebrities
the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Dylan and Jack Nicholson in the 1960s.
Yelapa is a small fishing village
with a population of about 1,500 residents, including some Canadian expatriates
drawn to its laid-back lifestyle. Located on the southern shore of the
The Vortex café offers international cuisine and Internet access
While there is a small dirt road to
Yelapa that can be negotiated in a four-wheel drive during the dry season, it
is most easily accessible by boat, from locations in and around
You should arrive early at the pier
to ensure you get a spot, especially on Sundays when fewer taxis are
running. While your taxi is en route,
keep an eye out for wildlife. We saw
dolphins skirting the waves alongside the boat, as well as whales breaching the
water’s surface.
Once in Yelapa, water taxis offload
passengers either near the shore (your feet will get wet) or at a dock on
either end of the beach. Some visitors
will stay on the beach for the remainder of the day, while others will head up
towards the village and waterfall. For those who choose to remain beachfront,
the relatively calm waters (compared to those in
PIE ON THE PLAYA
The less ambitious, who simply prefer
to soak up some rays, can grab a chair at one of the numerous beachfront
restaurants, for a meal and cold drink. The seafood here is terrific,
especially the fresh-caught red snapper and mahi-mahi. Whatever you choose to
have for lunch, do leave room for one (or more) slices of freshly baked pie,
sold on the beach by Yelapa’s famous pie ladies. I’ve had the fortune of sampling their lemon meringue, banana nut
and chocolate, and must say that these are some of the best I’ve ever tasted,
especially when washed down with a
Those who choose to wander through
the village to the 45-metre-high waterfall can do so either on foot, by mule or
on horseback. As soon as you start making your way through the village, you’ll
feel like you’ve taken a step back in time. The footpaths are made of dirt,
cobble and in some cases cement to help prevent degradation during the rainy
season. While bicycles are being
increasingly used by locals, the village remains devoid of cars and
motorcycles.
As we hiked through the village, we
passed homes, rental units and shops, as well as a church, school and new youth
center. Most homes are made of brick and cement, though a few are still
open-air palapas, with thatched roofs made of dried palm leaves on four posts.
Near the waterfall we came across a handful of souvenir stalls, as well as a
shop offering handicrafts made from locally grown rosewood. There is also a
gallery in town which sells Huichol art. If you plan to make the detour out to
Yelapa from
If you get lost on your way to the
waterfall or back to the beach (there are no signs anywhere), don’t hesitate to
ask the local townspeople, whom we found very warm and hospitable. Just ask for
la playa when looking for the beach
and la cascada when heading up
towards the waterfall. When you reach the waterfall, enjoy a dip in the
crystal-clear pool, as well as a cold drink at the nearby café.
The 45-metre-high waterfall near the village can be reached by foot or on horseback
Modern conveniences such as
electricity and phones only become widely available a few years ago, as did
internet access at a couple of village cafés. There is no water delivery system
in the village, just pipes for carrying water from the nearby El Tuito River.
Consequently water is not always available to locals, particularly during the
dry season.
PALAPA OR POOLSIDE
For those who find that a day trip
is not enough time to take it all in, there are numerous accommodations
available for rent, by the day, week or month.
During the busy dry season, you need to make reservations ahead of time. Some of the small rental units are located
beachfront, others are in the hills above the village. Many are original palapa
style, with some offering hot water, electricity and a kitchenette. If you plan to stay overnight at one of
these units, bring a flashlight (for negotiating the footpaths) and any
medicines and toiletries you may need, as these may not be available at the
town’s store.
Two hotels bear special mention for
those who like to be pampered. The
first is the Hotel Lagunita (tel:
011-52-322-209-5056; www.hotel-lagunita.com),
which has a coveted location right on the beach, and features 30 bungalows with
private bathrooms, a restaurant bar, massage hut and a beautiful saltwater pool
built on natural rocks overlooking the water.
This rustic yet romantic hotel offers a panoramic view of the bay,
simple but clean rooms, and friendly and attentive staff.
The other hotel, which is a much
more recent addition, is the secluded and chic retreat Verana (tel: 800-530-7176; www.verana.com),
perched on a hillside with jaw-dropping views of the bay. It offers eight individually designed
multi-room guest houses, each with its own spacious terrace and mosquito-netted
beds. Amenities include a full bar and restaurants offering Mexican-inspired
cuisine (meals are included in the price), a spring-fed infinity pool, a
library, a jungle spa complete with a Watsu pool, and a yoga hut.
Verana has eight
individually designed guest houses on a hillside with jaw-dropping views
For those who decide to stay in
Yelapa for more than a day, there are plenty of activities to keep them
entertained. We followed one of the
sandy paths along the El Tuito River that took us into the jungle, past
numerous waterfalls and swimming holes. Within the lush growth we encountered a
wide range of tropical vegetation and abundant wildlife including iguanas,
giant macaws and many other species of tropical birds. Visitors can also
charter a private boat for a deep-sea fishing expedition, a visit to a nearby
secluded beach, or a day trip to the
The spiny tailed
iguana is usually found in city ruins, stone walls and on the edge of forests
Yelapa has also attracted many artists,
writers, and therapists who now offer workshops and retreats ranging from
massage and pottery to meditation and yoga. These can be booked on their own,
or can be arranged as part of an all-inclusive package. Spanish lessons are also available, both on
an individual basis and in classes for children or adults. Home stays with host
families are offered for those who want to be totally immersed in Spanish.
Finally, if, like me, you happen to
be a dog lover, you’ll be pleased to learn that Yelapa has its fair share of
semi-strays. On our previous visit, we were greeted on the beach by one of the
resident pups who then guided us up the village to the waterfall (don’t worry
if you’re not into dogs, they’ll soon realize that and move on to the next group
of tourists). Later that day after we returned to the beach, we aptly rewarded
him with some lemon meringue, which he gladly devoured.
Yelapa is a holistic and relatively
unspoiled destination for those who wish to get away from it all and just enjoy
all that nature has to offer, without the encumberances of modern life such as
televisions and cell phones. For more information on this unique side trip
check out the tourist office of Yelapa (www.yelapa.info) or the
Mexican Tourism Board (www.visitmexicopress.com).
Whatever period of time you decide to spend in Yelapa, I suggest you plan your
visit for the not-too-distant future, before this paradise becomes more
commercialized and loses its charm.
Dr Howe Sim is an internist
(gastroenterology) working in